A rare opportunity to climb this Karakoram giant next to K2

Introduction
The Karakoram contains the greatest concentration of high altitude peaks in the world. Four 8,000m peaks straddle the Pakistan/China border within a few miles of each other: K2 8611m, Broad Peak 8047m, Gasherbrum I 8,068m and Gasherbrum II 8,035m. The vast accumulation of ice and glaciers surrounding these peaks has led to the Karakoram being called 'the third pole'.

This area was formerly part of the British Indian Empire prior to the emergence of Pakistan as an independent nation in 1947. In recent decades, it has become increasingly popular as a destination for adventurous trekkers and mountaineers. The landscape tends to be harsher than that found in mountainous areas of Nepal and India, and the tourist infrastructure is less developed. Consequently, the numbers of tourists is substantially less. Each year there are 50-60 expeditions attempting peaks over 6,000m in the Karakoram, comprising over 500 climbers. In addition several thousand trekkers make the popular treks to visit the base camps of famous peaks such as Nanga Parbat and K2.

Instances of violence or robbery targeted at tourists are almost unknown, and the area is comparable in terms of safety with other parts of Asia - and certainly better than some. Although Pakistan occasionally gets a bad press in the west as a result of governmental corruption and incompetence, it remains a safe place to visit as a tourist, and a very safe and relaxing place to visit as part of an organised expedition. The people of the mountain valleys where you will spend most of your time are overwhelmingly friendly, welcoming and helpful. Their good humour will contribute greatly to your enjoyment of climbing in their mountain homeland.

Named for its vast bulk by the British explorer, W M Conway in 1892, Broad Peak dominates the head of the Baltoro Valley. It is the world's twelfth highest mountain and one of the fourteen 8,000 metre peaks; it is also one of the most straightforward, technically, to climb. It was first climbed in 1957 by Austrians M Schmuck, F Wintersteller, Kurt Deimberger and Herman Buhl. Their route was via the West Ridge which rises from the Concordia to a broad snow slope leading to the col between the central and main summits. This, with minor variations, has since become the 'Normal Route', and will also be the line of our ascent.

The Expedition
Broad Peak is one of the huge mountains, which towers above Concordia at the heart of the Karakoram range. It lies on the Pakistan / China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by an Austrian group in 1957, which included Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.
Expeditions to Broad Peak start with a spectacular trek to base camp passing some of the best scenery in the Karakoram. The climb itself is more challenging than nearby Gasherbrum II. We climb the peak by the 'classic' West Ridge route that rises directly above base camp on the Godwin Austen glacier. The route follows a 30-45 degree snow slope with short rock sections. Three or Four camps will be placed and ropes will be fixed on the steeper sections of the climb.

Summit day starts up a long snow-slope to gain the col between the central and main summits and then a long and exposed ridge leads to the top, with incredible views across China, K2 and the mountains of the Karakoram.

The Broad Peak expedition is a major undertaking, being high altitude mountaineering in a remote situation where the weather is less than predictable. However, the climbing is superb and quite varied, with a fantastic perspective of the Baltoro peaks and K2, which lies just across the glacier. The route is objectively quite safe because it follows ridge crests for much of its length.

This expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's highest mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximize your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's highest mountains, this could be the trip for you.